Cold
Crossing: Alexander Mackenzie’s Great
Slave Ordeal
In 1789, when North West Company explorer
Alexander Mackenzie outfitted his birch bark
canoe in preparation for his North West expedition,
he included an oak mast and a canvas sail.
He hoped to use the sail to speed his crossing
of “Slave Lake,” the large body
of water that appeared on a map drawn by his
colleague, Peter Pond.
Why
Was the Weather So Cold?
All across the Northern Hemisphere
from the 15th – early
19th centuries, temperatures
plummeted, glaciers advanced,
straits and rivers froze, and
formerly fertile agricultural
areas became unproductive. New
World explorers such as Alexander
Mackenzie, who battled ice in
Great Slave Lake in the middle
of June, were caught in the
grip of the “Little
Ice Age.” This
period of colder-than-average
weather may have begun as early
as 1450, and lasted as late
as 1850. It lowered worldwide
average temperatures by 1 –
2 degrees. Some regions, such
as North America and Northern
Europe, experienced even harsher
weather. The prolonged cold
snap was fatal to residents
of Iceland and Greenland, when
sea ice isolated them from the
rest of the world. Scientists
have offered several explanations
for the Little Ice Age, including
drastically lowered sunspot
activity and sun-blocking volcanic
dust.
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Mackenzie and his party of at least 12
men and women (including fellow Nor’Wester
Laurent Leroux, 4 French Canadian voyageurs,
1 German trader, a Chipewyan known as “English
Chief,” additional Chipewyan guides
and wives of some of the men) set off from
Fort Chipewyan, on Lake Athabasca, in early
June. But by the time they had struggled
through rapids, biting winds and sudden
snowstorms to reach the mouth of the Slave
River, rosy visions of a summertime sail
on a balmy lake had already given way to
a cruel realization: the weather was cold,
and getting colder. The situation deteriorated
even further when the party reached the
south side of Great Slave Lake. They were
met with a wall of ice floes, pushed to
the shore by north winds.
Slowly, fearfully, Mackenzie and his crew
followed a string of islands across the
lake. The broken ice constantly threatened
to tear the birch bark of their canoes,
and the grease-soaked cloth that covered
their supplies was no match for the rain
and snow. When the group finally neared
the north shore, it was all they could do
to prevent the strong winds and currents
from dashing their canoes against the rocky
shores.
The harrowing crossing took 7 days. When
they landed, a new problem arose: they couldn’t
find the river that was supposed to take
them west. For 2 weeks, the group wandered
through the bays, inlets, beaver ponds,
mud flats and sandbars of the lake’s
western shore. When it became clear that
their Dogrib guide, hired after their arrival
on the north shore, could not find his way,
a dangerous quarrel erupted between the
Chipewyan English Chief and the local guide.
Finally, on June 29, the outlet of the river
was located, and Mackenzie’s prolonged
ordeal on Great Slave Lake was over.
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