| Modern-Day
Mi’kmaq Communities of Bras d’Or
Today, 4 of Cape Breton’s 5 Mi’kmaq
reserves are located on the shores of the
Bras d’Or Lakes. They include:
Eskasoni – A large
reserve (population 2,865) located below
the Boisdale Hills, on the north shore of
the Lakes’ East Bay. The community’s
name is derived from the Mi’kmaq word
we’ksistoqnik, meaning “where
the fir trees are plentiful.”
Chapel Island – Long
associated with Mi’kmaq culture, and
the site of an early French Catholic mission.
Located near the southwest end of Bras d’Or
Lake, in the vicinity of Barra Head and
St. Peter’s. (Population: 450)
Waycobah – “Head
of the Waters” community, located
at the eastern end of St. Patrick’s
Channel, near the Scottish settlement of
Whycocomagh. (Population: 600).
Wagmatcook – Located
on St. Patrick’s Channel, just west
of the village of Baddeck. (Population:
550)
Powwow Revival: Eskasoni’s Annual
Celebration
With a resurgence of cultural identity and
pride in the maritime Mi’kmaq Nation,
Eskasoni, Atlantic Canada’s largest
native community, has revived the ancient
tradition of the ko’jua, or powwow
gathering. Held each year in late June,
the Eskasoni powwow is the largest event
of its kind in the Atlantic provinces. Visitors
from throughout Canada and the United States
take part in storytelllng, drumming and
dancing, “talking circles” and
traditional Mi’kmaq games, including
waltes. Colourful competitions include “Best
Regalia,” and daily pageantry features
the “Grand Entry” and the “Retiring
of the Flags.”
Visit the Wagmatcook
Culture and Heritage Centre
A bald eagle, perched atop a stone adorned
with Mi’kmaq hieroglyphics, appears
in the stained glass window that dominates
the main foyer of the Wagmatcook Culture
and Heritage Centre on the north shore of
the Bras d’Or Lakes. The Centre, opened
in 2001, is dedicated to the revival of
the Mi’kmaq culture. A life-size wigwam,
collections of ancient tools, photographs
of Mi’kmaq people catching salmon,
making baskets and hunting for caribou,
portray the Centre’s theme, “The
Way a Mi’kmaq Lives.” The site
is home to a permanent heritage exhibit
and display of Mi’kmaq artifacts entitled
“Let Us Remember the Old Mi’kmaq.”
Special activities in the facility’s
Great Hall include drumming, dancing and
storytelling by community elders. Visitors
can sample traditional Mi’kmaq foods
such as eel stew, roasted venison and “four
cent cake” at the Centre’s on-site
restaurant, and shop for baskets, beadwork,
quill-work, Mi’kmaq regalia, and original
paintings and artwork. The Wagmatcook Centre
is open daily, year-round.
Lee Cremo, Mi’kmaq Fiddler Extraordinaire
What does Cape Breton culture sound like?
To find out, pick up a recording by the
late Lee Cremo a Mi’kmaq musician
from the Bras d’Or Lakes community
of Eskasoni. Cremo, born into a talented
musical family, was a gifted fiddler and
composer who produced a unique blend of
Mi’kmaq music, Scottish reels and
Irish jigs. A charming and colourful performer,
Cremo was a 6-time winner of the Maritime
Fiddling Championships and the “Best
Bow Arm in the World” competition
at the World Fiddle Championships in Nashville,
Tennessee. He appeared with some of country
music’s most famous stars, and was
the subject of a movie, “Arm of Gold,”
and a Smithsonian Institute production,
“Creation’s Journey.”
Until his death at the age of 60, in 1999,
Cremo was a tireless ambassador for the
Mi’kmaq culture and often performed
at aboriginal events.
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