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History/Bras d'Or Lake
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Governor of the Gulf: Freed from his Port Royal dungeon, Denys hastened to France to lodge a protest with the king. Here, in 1653, his luck seemed to turn. Not only was the dispute with Le Borgne decided in Denys’ favour, but for the price of 15,000 livres, the tenacious trader also was able to negotiate the purchase of rights to most of the coast and islands of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Denys’ vast territory now included all of Cape Breton and Prince Edward Island. His triumph was complete when shortly afterwards, he was appointed governor and lieutenant-general of his new domain.

With his jurisdictional rights now assured, and a successful transcontinental fishing venture underway, Denys returned to his Bras d’Or base of Saint-Pierre to establish his colony in earnest. Resuming his good relations with native Mi’Kmaq fur traders; he also fished, farmed and cut timber in the vicinity of the Bras d’Or Lakes. Taking his cue from the Mi’Kmaq, who had long used the isthmus at Saint-Pierre to cross from the Atlantic Ocean to the Lakes’ inland sea, Denys used the ancient portage trail as a “haulover” road. Teams of oxen pulled ships from one shore to the other.

Failure and Frustration: At last, Denys’ future in the New World seemed secure. He expanded his operations, establishing a mainland post near present-day Guysborough, on Chedabucto Bay. But once again the trader’s luck was running out. His colony at Saint-Pierre was floundering, and his debts were mounting steadily. To make matters worse, his Chedabucto-based lieutenants were conspiring against him, gradually taking over his property. For the next several years, the increasingly desperate Denys moved his family and his business back and forth between Saint-Pierre and Chedabucto, struggling to affirm his rights to both. Denys’ financial ruin was complete when, during the winter of 1668-1669, fire completely destroyed his settlement at Saint-Pierre. At the age of 70, Denys was forced to relocate to his only remaining property, a stockaded post at Nipisiguit, on the Bay of Chaleur near present-day Bathurst, New Brunswick.

Literary Legacy: It is at Nipisiguit that Denys penned his 2-volume study of the maritime lands of New France, including a detailed description of the cod-fishery and a realistic, respectful account of the region’s First Nations people. (Denys’ respect for the Mi’Kmaq was mutual; many of them referred affectionately to the white-bearded Frenchman as “La Grande Barbe.”) Despite his great misfortune, Denys remained enthusiastic and optimistic about the future of the New World. His writings, published in France in 1672, were designed to encourage others to seek their fortune in his adopted land.

Visit the Nicolas Denys Museum and the St. Peter’s Canal National Historic Site

Nicolas Denys Museum: Although little trace of Cape Breton’s first European settlement survives in the community of St. Peter’s, at the southwest end of the Bras d’Or Lakes, the Nicolas Denys Museum honours the memory of the Island’s first permanent settler. Exhibits include examples of clothing worn by Denys and his wife in the 17th century, and a reproduction of a painting by Lewis Parker depicting Denys at the original 1650 French trading post known as Saint-Pierre. The Museum also houses an extensive collection of local artifacts from the 18th century to the present, including photographs of the construction of the historic St. Peter’s Canal. Plan to visit St. Peter’s during the first week in August, when the community hosts Nicolas Denys Days, an annual celebration that includes a parade, ceilidhs, and chowder lunches.

St. Peter’s Canal National Historic Site: With its beginnings as a Mi’Kmaq portage trail between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bras d’Or Lakes, and a “haulover” road used by French colonist Nicolas Denys, the St. Peter’s Canal, constructed between 1845 and 1869, is a nationally significant transportation route. It was built to provide a navigable corridor between the outer sea and the inland Lakes, and is Canada’s oldest tidal lock canal. The St. Peter’s Canal continues to be used by both pleasure craft and commercial vessels. Learn more about the historic waterway at the St. Peter’s National Historic Site interpretive exhibit, featuring a 19th century lockmaster’s house.

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