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The Shifting Sands of Prince Edward County
Since the last ice age, waves driven against the shores of prevailing southwesterly winds in eastern Lake Ontario have created some of the most extensive baymouth sandbar and coastal sand dune systems in the world.

The Sandbanks area is located in Prince Edward County, an island (formerly an isthmus, before the construction of the Murray Canal in 1889) that juts into the Lake just south of Belleville. Now a popular Southern Ontario recreational destination, the area includes 2 specialized ecosystem features:

Open dunes, 12 - 25 metres high, with juniper heaths, and pine, maple, hemlock and cedar forests
Pannes, or shoreline fens, meadows situated on the moist sand of the lake plain.

Land-clearing by early Prince Edward County farmers contributed to the erosion of the dunes, but recent efforts to stabilize the sands have revived unusual arid plant species such as bluet, hoary puccoon, sea rocket, sand spurge and butterfly weed.

Great Lake Genesis
To the sailor scanning the limitless horizons of Lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie or Ontario, it may seem impossible to believe that North America's vast freshwater seas have not always existed. But today's lobe-like constellation of Great Lakes waterways is barely more than 10,000 years old, born only in the last few seconds of Earth's geological history.

Ancient Pre-Cambrian rock is the basement foundation laid under the Great Lakes over 3 billion years ago, forming a giant granite basin. Beginning about 600 million years ago, during the Paleozoic Era, the basin was flooded by a broad, shallow sea filled with primeval life forms such as corals, brachiopods and mollusks. When the inland ocean drained away (about 300 million years later), a thick sedimentary layer of lime silts, clays, sands and salts of marine life left deposits of limestone, shale, sandstone, halite and gypsum on top of the Pre-Cambrian shield.

Early Erosion: Through the millennia, as the earth heaved and the Appalachian mountain range emerged, massive rivers rushed through the heart of the continent, carving valleys and etching patterns into the soft upper sediments and penetrating the harder limestone. The basins of the Great Lakes may have begun to form during this period. Some researchers have suggested that large scale movements in the Earth's crust, combined with the powerful water currents that they created, along with the effects of the Earth's rotation, were responsible for most of the excavation of the Great Lakes.

Most geologists, however, believe that the lake-making process began in earnest about one million years ago, when the continental glaciers of the Pleistocene Epoch began their slow but relentless cycle of advance and retreat. With each southward extension of the northern polar cap, sheets of ice up to 2,000 metres thick scoured the earth's surface, grinding away hills and enlarging the valleys that had already been created by the river systems. (At a maximum depth of 405 metres, Lake Superior extends deep into Pre-Cambrian rock, while the shallower basins of Lakes Huron, Michigan, Erie and Ontario are eroded into the upper Paleozoic sedimentary layer.)

The Big Flip
As the surface of Lake Ontario warms during the summer months, a water layering process known as thermal stratification takes place. The deepest water (244 metres at its maximum, 86 metres on average) is insulated from the sun and stays cool, while the water closest to the surface forms a warmer, less dense surface layer. At the height of the summer, an in-between layer forms, dividing the surface layer from the cold, deep bottom. These layers are known as:
Hypolimnion - The cold bottom layer, with low oxygen levels that become even lower as summer progresses.
Thermocline - The thin middle layer between the warm upper water and cold bottom water. Water temperature and oxygen levels within this layer change dramatically from upper to lower levels.
Epilimnion - The warm upper layer, rich in oxygen, that supports most of the life in the Lake, including algal growth.

Four Degrees and Falling: In late fall, when the epilmnion, or surface layer, cools to its maximum density at a temperature of 4 degrees Celsius, it begins to sink. The deep waters of the lake are displaced, causing a mixing, or turnover, of the entire lake. The same process occurs again in spring, when temperatures and densities of deep and shallow waters change. The turnover process is vital to the health of the Lake, allowing circulating water to come into contact with the surface and distributing much-needed oxygen evenly throughout the lake.

Bobbing Bacteria: Recent die-offs of fish and fish-eating waterfowl in Lake Erie, has been blamed on the effect of invasive species and the natural turnover process. Deadly botulism bacteria, normally confined to the lake bottom, have been disturbed, circulated, and biomagnified by zebra mussels and round gobies. As the numbers of both species increase in Lake Ontario, similar bacterial outbreaks may occur.



Iroquois Ancestor: About 12,000 years ago, as the "Wisconsin" ice age drew to a close, the melt water along the front of the retreating glacier pooled into the depressions that had been formed by the weight of the ice. Enormous bodies of water - much larger than the present Great Lakes - began to form. Wherever it was freed from the weight of the glacier, the land began to rise or rebound, causing dramatic changes in the size, distribution and drainage patterns of the glacial lakes. With each new shift, or uplift, the lakes spilled out in new directions, to the southwest, to the south, and to the east.

Present-day Lake Ontario was born from the giant glacial lake known as Lake Iroquois. Water from the higher-level Lake Erie basin drained over the Niagara Escarpment, to the Lake Iroquois basin below. The ancient Lake, shaped like Lake Ontario, was larger and deeper.

Whoosh! : Glacial ice had retreated first from the western end of the Lake Iroquois basin, sending its outlet flow south toward New York's Hudson River Valley. But when a massive plug of ice finally pulled away from the Thousand Islands (where it had been blocking flow in the basin's eastern end), Lake Iroquois surged through the newly-opened channel of the St. Lawrence River. The Lake began to drain east toward the Atlantic, and the eastern end of the Iroquois basin sprang back from the weight of the glacier. Water levels in Lake Iroquois began to drop and the Lake's shoreline receded, beginning the long, slow birth of present-day Lake Ontario.

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